Chicago Tribune 7/99

FASHION: CAREER-CHIC

SELF-STARTER STYLE:
EVERY MEETING CAN MEAN BUSINESS FOR POLISHED ENTREPRENEURS

By Margaret Littman.
Published: Wednesday, July 28, 1999
Section: WOMAN NEWS
Page: 4

For home-based entrepreneurs and other small-business owners, one of the perks of being the boss is setting the dress code: sweat pants, leggings, even slippers are all OK if you're the only one seeing what you wear.

But women who get accustomed to casual mode can suffer culture shock when they face the closet before a client meeting or lunch.

"Once you work in casual clothes, it's hard to go back to pantyhose and high heels," says Jill Bremer, an Oak Park image consultant.

To illustrate how best to go from home office to corporate headquarters, Bremer walked Marcie Tilkin, 44, through three outfit alternatives for key occasions in Tilkin's work life. Tilkin and her husband, Howard, own Howard Marc Associates, a specialty gift sales representative firm. Several days a week Tilkin works with her husband out of their North Side home, usually in blue jeans or shorts.

Even when Tilkin leaves to meet clients, she often doesn't have to dress formally. Many of the decorative and gift items she carries are sold through nurseries, card stores and other casual retailers, where her clients are likely to be wearing denim and T-shirts. Tilkin takes client cues on how to dress.

But when she meets with the manufacturers who make the products she sells, she needs an office-appropriate outfit that shows she's in charge. Trade shows, networking meetings and conferences require the same power-suit presentation.

"Entrepreneurs define their companies," Bremer says.

As her own boss, delivery service and chauffeur, Tilkin also has some pragmatic concerns. She often carries as much as 100 pounds in product samples, meaning high heels and other binding clothes won't do. Howard Marc counts all of Illinois as its territory-and Tilkin covers a lot of it.

"I never wear linen because it wrinkles in the car and I don't have time to wear one thing to drive and then change. I just have to get there and go," she says.

In addition to comfort, Tilkin emphasizes value. So Bremer scoured stores from high-end boutiques to Target to come up with travel-friendly, authoritative ensembles designed to ease the entrepreneur's anxiety when faced with the world of wildly different dress codes.

SHOW-STOPPING: ATTENDING CONVENTIONS

Walking a trade show is where Tilkin's need for style with comfort is most crucial. These events provide an opportunity for her to meet manufacturers and expand her product offerings.

"She needs to look polished enough that everyone knows she is the decision-maker, but she still needs to look approachable," Bremer says.

Earth tones are almost always the answer to that dilemma, she says. She chose a skirt and blousey jacket that don't quite amount to a suit.

Bremer added a scarf that ties in the earth tones and dresses up the outfit, without a lot of jewelry, which Tilkin says she rarely wears. Bremer opted for a simple side knot.

"Side knots are more flattering, sort of like a side part in your hair. It makes your nose look smaller," she says. In addition to asymmetry, the rule for accessories is odd numbers, such as three pinpoints of color-pin, belt and purse, or a cluster of three pins, she says.

SPOTLIGHT: AN EVENING SPEECH

For nighttime business events, Bremer says rethinking makeup is as important as the wardrobe. "Women always think evening just means more makeup. But it's always best just to leave your cheeks alone. If you add any more blush, it ruins everything." Bremer suggests a darker eye and lip color to add drama.

Drama was what Bremer was going for in a fuchsia and black outfit that she says gives Tilkin a "commanding presence. This is a power look for her."

Tilkin liked the cut of the long cardigan with the skirt because she looked pulled together, but the clothes camouflaged what she considers her main figure flaws.

Bremer paired the skirt with sling-back heels, which she says add a "business-appropriate amount of sex appeal."

RISING TO THE OCCASION: BREAKFAST NETWORKING

Bremer says "conservative" should be the guiding thought at networking events, because other networkers will come from a variety of industries and may be wearing traditional suits on the way to a bank job. But conservative, she says, doesn't have to mean stuffy, especially because this is before the workday officially begins. Bremer worked with blues and khakis over black.

"Women wear too much black," Bremer says. "That's their power color, and they should save it for when they really need it."

Rather than flat-front pants, Bremer chose pleated ones, which are more forgiving of figure imperfections. The blazer's tweed pattern is standard, but its blue and green colors allow Tilkin to "push the envelope a notch," Bremer says. Lapels, she says, should go on the outside of the collar. Black, square flats have a two-button detail - comfortable, but still striking.

BUSINESS CHARM SCHOOL

Advanced degrees will get you so far, but charm and grace may be what go the rest of the distance in the workplace. With that in mind, Jill Bremer (above right) offers more than professional polish and image consultations. She also does workshops and coaching for presentation skills and business etiquette through her business, Bremer Communications.

"(Etiquette) is a real hot topic because they don't teach this in school, and they don't teach this at home anymore," Bremer says.

Although social etiquette is based on age and gender, business etiquette is based on rank-generally, Bremer says.

"The big thing women need to remember is that etiquette is all about making the other person feel comfortable."

And that makes for a lot of gray area and exceptions to the rule, she says. "If you're dealing with an older man (who outranks you), you don't stand there arguing about who holds the door," she says. "By all means let him open the door for you if that's what he wants to do."

Here are some basics to keep in mind:

When making introductions, say first the name of the person who should be shown the greatest respect, e.g., "Ms. CEO, this is Ms. Mailroom. Ms. Mailroom, this is Ms. CEO."

If you forget someone's name, be honest, apologize, then continue with the introduction.

When introducing yourself to someone, share your name, company name and other information of interest, such as where you might have met before.

Show deference to those who rank above you by holding doors open for them, standing when they enter a room, allowing them to enter and exit elevators first. You need not do this with a boss whom you work alongside every day, but this is appropriate for special visitors or those several rungs up-women or men.

A handshake should be the initial point of contact. If you do it at the beginning, do it at the end of the encounter too.

In this age of high-tech communication, personal notes can do much to foster goodwill and promote yourself. Send handwritten notes to thank someone for a business referral, to mark their birthday or anniversary, promotion, new job or marriage, to offer condolences, or to thank them for exceptional help. If you choose to send a card, add a personal note to it.

When making phone calls, always identify yourself by first and last names to both the receptionist and person you're calling.

Before putting people on speaker phone, ask for their permission and let them know who is in the room with you.

When meeting with someone who has to take a phone call, offer to step out of the room.

Return calls and e-mails within 24 hours.

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Jill Bremer can be reached at 708-848-5945, or check the Web at www.bremercommunications.com

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