Skin Care

SKIN CARE 101

By Jill Bremer, AICI, CIP

Bremer Communications

Most women are obsessed with their skin. They have been badgered since birth with ads and commercials preaching the benefits of proper cleansing, scrubbing and moisturizing. Men are beginning to join the bandwagon now, realizing that healthy skin is an important element of their total image. Skin care is big business in America and companies spend millions creating the next miracle cream. The truth is we don't need miracles, just a small collection of effective products and the expertise to use them correctly. This article will do just that - teach you the basics of good skin care.

Did you know that your skin is actually your body's largest organ? This organ just happens to be on the outside of your body, exposed day in and day out to the sun, wind and pollution. The incredible complexity of your skin is demonstrated by the fact that one square inch, the size of a postage stamp, contains approximately 9,500,000 cells, 65 hairs, 100 oil glands, 19 feet of blood vessels, 650 sweat glands, 19,500 sensory cells, 78 yards of nerves, 165 pressure receptors, 1300 pain receptors, 12 cold receptors, 78 heat receptors. Do everything you can to take care of your skin. If you do the right steps on a regular basis, your skin will last a lifetime (and never reveal your age!).

The first step in taking care of your skin is to determine your skin type. And the easiest way to do this is to check how your skin feels at noontime. Does it feel oily? If it does, you have oily skin. Tight and itchy? You have dry skin. Does it feel the same as it does in the morning? You have normal skin. To be honest, normal skin is rare. Most men and women have combination skin, which means they have generally even pores with a bit of excess oiliness across the forehead and down the nose and chin. If you do have oily or dry skin, don't worry. It just means you'll have to be a bit more vigilant and use a few specialized products.

There are four basic skin care steps that should performed by both men and women twice a day - cleansing, toning, exfoliating and moisturizing. These four steps should only take you about five minutes to complete.

CLEANSING - The best cleansers are either creamy or gel, not soap. Soap tends to strip your skin of all moisture and natural oils. And that can actually stimulate more oil production! Creams and gels are gentler on the skin and "clean cleaner" than soaps. Apply the cleanser with your fingers and move in circular motions around your face and neck. Remove the cleanser with a lukewarm washcloth. Don't be afraid to scrub a little! The texture of the washcloth will stimulate blood flow to the skin's surface and help to loosen the dead skin cells. Be sure to wash your face before bedtime. Your skin will be able to breathe and repair itself while you sleep.

TONING - Sometimes called the "cotton ball step", toning restores the acidic pH of the skin after cleansing. Look for fresheners or toners, rather than alcohol-based astringents. Always use 100% cotton balls, not cosmetic "puffs". Made of synthetic fibers, puffs can actually scratch the skin. Apply the toner to the cotton ball and wipe upwards from the neck to the forehead, avoiding the undereye area. The upward motion helps to release any residue or debris still trapped under your pores' "shingles".

EXFOLIATING - There are different types of exfoliators available - alpha hydroxy acid serums, scrubs and masques. Their job is to release the dead cells from the skin's surface which in turn, let the pores breathe and makes the skin look fresh, young and healthy. The process of shaving for men is probably the best exfoliator of all, but they should keep in mind they don't shave their noses and foreheads, two problem areas that also need attention!

Skin cells live for about 21 days, moving from the basal cell layer of the epidermis up to the surface. As they migrate upward, they become flatter and lose their ability to hold moisture. After about three weeks of life, the cells die but stay stuck to the surface of the face. And we have 15-35 layers of dead cells sitting on the surface dulling our complexion! Exfoliators work to release the glue-like bonds holding the dead skin onto the surface and reveal the living skin below. Regular use of exfoliators will reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, minimize pore size and even the skin tone.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids are comprised of naturally-occurring acids from sugar cane (glycolic acid), milk (lactic acid) and fruits (malic acid, ascorbic acid). They gently loosen the dead cells so they can be removed easily. I recommend using a system incorporating AHA's, but keep in mind that these serums must have variable strengths available so that you can start with a low percentage and move gradually to a higher strength. AHA products can be used once or twice a day.

Scrubs and masques unclog pores and deep clean the skin. Scrubs usually include a granular element that does the work for you; masques are left on the face for 5-15 minutes and then removed with a washcloth. These products are generally used once or twice a week, depending on your skin type.

MOISTURIZING - The final step for men and women is to moisturize. A water-based moisturizer works for all skin types, because even those with oily skin can still be water-deficient. The most important quality to look for in a moisturizer is an SPF factor of at least 15, as this will help to protect your skin from the damaging rays of the sun. Apply a layer of moisturizer to the entire face including the undereye area and neck. Note to Men - stop using those alcohol splashes after you shave. Your skin is crying out for moisturizer, not stinging pain!

FINAL THOUGHTS - Whatever products you decide to use on your skin, be sure to use one integrated system. If some part of the system does not work for you, try a different system completely. Don't mix and match a cleanser from one company and a moisturizer from another because you will not achieve the best results. Systems are developed to work together so that each step builds upon the one before. The collection you choose should also be pH-balanced - they will work the most effectively on the skin.

The greatest enemy to skin is the sun and its ultraviolet radiation. Sunlight causes structural damage in the dermis that affects the skin's elasticity. This loss of elasticity is cumulative and irreversible and causes premature aging. Stay out of the sun as much as possible and use sunscreen every day. Keep your skin well hydrated with water inside and out, so make water your drink of choice and keep your surroundings humidified. Your skin will thank you!

To my Image Insight e-zine subscribers: I highly recommend the skin care products available from Beauty For All Seasons (Gentlemen, don't let the name scare you away!) I have used them exclusively since 1986 and can attest to their quality and efficacy. Email me at jill@bremercommunications.com or call me at 708-848-5945 and I can send you a product catalog.

Jill Bremer, AICI, CIP, owner of Bremer Communications, offers training, consulting and coaching in professional image development and presentation skills. Her clients include Oracle, Abbott Labs, W.W. Grainger, U.S. Department of Energy and the National Association of Realtors. She can be reached at 708-848-5945 or at www.bremercommunications.com