TAKING CARE OF YOUR HAIR

The following is an interview Jill Bremer, AICI, CIP, conducted with Judy Lucas, AICI, CIP, a well-known hairstylist and image consultant in Chicago, Illinois.

Jill: Judy, thanks for the opportunity to interview you. Let’s begin with a look at your background in the hair industry.

Judy: I’ve been in the industry for over thirty years. I started in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, then moved to Chicago where I’ve been part of the Salon market since 1972 working on near-north Michigan Avenue. I spent ten years as Training Director for a national salon company designing and teaching programs in cutting techniques, business practices and train-the-trainer skills. My job also included putting the training programs together for the company’s annual international conferences. I got into the image side of the business when I began helping stylists “dress for success”, training them on makeup, clothing and other professional skills. I eventually began adding those elements into the work I did with my own clientele. I also had a business in New York for over five years, traveling there once a month to work with clients on hair and image, working in partnership with a color and personal shopping consultant.

Jill: Judy, why do we care so much about our hair? I think we all have a love-hate relationship with it. Why is that?

Judy: It’s one the first things people notice about us. It’s the “crown and glory” of our image. It grows with us (no pun intended), maturing our look as we develop from child to teenager to adult.

Jill: Would you say that our hair, like the clothes we wear, communicates how we think about ourselves?

Judy: Yes, it communicates how we think about ourselves but also what stage we are in life.

Jill: Do you think it’s important to change hairstyles for different stages in life?

Judy: I totally agree with that. It’s important to make a change from the high school or college look to your career look to represent who you’re becoming in the world and how you feel about yourself. It might be a classic look or a trendsetter look; it depends on your profession. But it’s important not to stay with a childish or teenage look in your 20’s, 30’s, 40’s and 50’s. Your hair should complement your lifestyle and not hold you in the past. Some people do the opposite and make the mistake of dressing or looking older than they should. So change hairstyles as your life changes but also be conscious of not looking too young or too old.

Jill: Have you found that to be true with women? That they’re perhaps fearful of changing their look from what worked for them in high school or college?

Judy: That’s very true. It’s a safe look for them. Sometimes they don’t have the guidance they need from someone like their mother or a hair professional, someone who can guide them through the transition from school to first job.

Jill: In your opinion, are there “correct” hairstyles for American business?

Judy: Rather than suggesting one standard style, I think the American business style has more to do with being neat, flattering and not being distracting. Women can wear a range of lengths depending on their job and position. Correct hairstyles are ones that enhance a person’s personality, face and dress.

Jill: It used to be that the look for women in business was the Army or “anchorwoman” look: nothing past the collar. Do you think that has changed in America, that women can wear their hair long?

Judy: I feel they can have long hair as long as it is a different style from when they were younger. The style should accent the face. Maybe shorter pieces around the face instead of a center part and straight down the sides. Look at female newscasters today; a lot of them have longer hair. Sometimes longer hair can be easier for someone to work with. Shorter hair can take time to style. I think as long as your hairstyle is appropriate for your profession, complementary to the face and personality and not distracting, any length goes.

Jill: Let’s talk about men. What do you think about facial hair in the workplace?

Judy: Some corporations say no facial hair, but if companies are open to it, my suggestion is to keep it closely groomed. Mustaches shouldn’t extend below the upper lip; the mouth should be seen clearly. Sideburns depend on the hairstyle, but for a corporate look, they shouldn’t go past the middle of the ear. In a trendy business, they might extend to the ear lobe. Eyebrows shouldn’t be overly bushy which can be distracting.

Jill: Do hairstylists take care of facial hair during an appointment?

Judy: Some do, some don’t. I trim eyebrows, beards, mustaches and ear hair. I don’t do nose hair but will recommend they take care of that at home!

Jill: What about men who are balding? Some are comfortable with hair loss, some aren’t. What do you recommend?

Judy: I recommend that they accept it, although that’s easier said than done. An appropriate haircut is important. The less hair you have, the shorter it should be overall. Stay away from the long piece coming across the top which can be aging and distracting, especially in the wind! Men with thinning hair need to have their hair cut more often to have that well-groomed look and to keep everything in proportion.

Jill: I think the big question everyone has is this: How do I know what hairstyle looks best on me? Should it be long, short, layered, straight or curly? What advice can you give people so that they can have an idea of what will work before they go into a salon?

Judy: I recommend that people look at catalogs and hairstyle magazines, which can be more useful than fashion magazines. You might find a color of hair you like, or a bang or length. Find what you like in the pictures and bring them to the salon. The stylist will then be able to tell you what will work best with your hair. Sometimes people wonder if the style will work with their image or if they’ll be able to care for it. The stylist can guide them, taking into consideration the texture of the hair and advising as to the care and time commitment for handling the style. If you’re going to a new hairstylist, call them and consult over the phone. I consult with people that way. They won’t know their face shape or type of hair, but they do know what they like and dislike. I also have them tell me words that answer the question, “What image do you want to project? Outside of whatever type of hair you have, in your job, in your personal life, what do you want people to notice about you through your hair?”

Jill: That’s a great idea and something people can do on their own. And in case the stylist doesn’t ask, they can offer those words themselves. Judy, stylists really don’t mind if you bring pictures to show them?

Judy: Some do, some don’t. I don’t mind because I can ask what they like about the picture: the color, bangs, length, curl? I think it’s good because I like clients to feel they have a part in it, but I will guide them to what looks best for their facial shape, features, hair texture and lifestyle.

Jill: What can someone do to find a good stylist? What steps do they need to go through, what questions should they be asking?

Judy: To share a story, I was mentioned in the publication “Today’s Chicago Woman” as being one of the best hairstylists in Chicago. I get about one client a week because of that. They may have clipped out the article months ago, but they’ve saved it and are calling me even now! So if you see someone written up like that, I think that’s always a good way to find a stylist. Notice other people’s hair with a texture similar to yours or style close to what you want and ask who they go to. Recommendations really work. Personally, I would never just walk into a salon. You usually end up with the person who’s not busy and sitting around. You don’t know if he or she is new or any good.

Jill: How often should people cut their hair?

Judy: I recommend that people with short hair get trimmed every four to five weeks. Men with really short hair could get a trim every three weeks to look well groomed. Medium to longer-length hair could go six to eight weeks between trims. And then I have clients who have very, very long hair that come in for the same blunt haircut once or twice a year.

Jill: Should people wash their hair everyday?

Judy: Most people do. People who exercise certainly should. And our atmosphere is dirtier. So it’s important to wash and condition hair once a day. I have some clients with thicker, coarser, kinkier hair that’s on the dry side who don’t have to wash their hair everyday. But as long as people use the proper shampoo and conditioner, they won’t dry out their hair. If you overwash or wash with the wrong products for your hair texture, you can cause damage to your hair.

Jill: Daily conditioning is important?

Judy: I feel it is, although finer hair textures don’t need it on a daily basis. I suggest they use a very small amount, maybe the size of a pea, and use it only on the ends. It will help control static electricity, snarling and add shine. And now you can find conditioners in different strengths, i.e. instant conditioners, medium strengths, heavy duty packs.

Jill: Should men condition their beards?

Judy: Yes, especially if the beard hair is wiry. Wash the beard as you wash the face and then run the conditioner through when you wash your hair. This is especially true for men who color their hair and beards which many men are doing these days.

Jill: More and more women are coloring their hair, too.

Judy: Women are staying in the workforce longer and want to maintain a fresh, professional image. Color enhancement can complement this image. Some clients color out of necessity, some to add body to their hair, some just want a tonality change. But I think the number one reason women color their hair is because of the working world. There are a lot of men who don’t want a gray-haired look, either.

Jill: Do you recommend that people have their hair colored in a salon, rather than trying to do it themselves?

Judy: There are some products available that are fairly mistake-proof, but choosing the wrong color is the biggest mistake people make.

Jill: So it doesn’t always come out the way it looks on the front of the box?

Judy: That’s right.

Jill: And then people come to you to fix those problems?

Judy: Yes, that’s what we call corrective color. I see people with orange hair that wanted blonde, etc. Teenagers today will color their hair like this for dramatic effect, but adults wouldn’t want it!

Jill: How long should people spend on their hair in the morning? Is there a “rule” that says if you spend longer than X amount of time on your hair, you probably have the wrong style?

Judy: It depends on the person. I have clients that want to be able to do their hair in two to three minutes. And I have other clients, like me, that can take twenty to thirty minutes to do their hair and not think anything of it. I always tell people that, if they want it to look good, they will need to take a little extra time. But, probably, ten to fifteen minutes can be adequate. I do show those thirty-minute clients ways to style their hair in two minutes, should the need arise.

Jill: There are so many hair products on the market. How do people know what to choose?

Judy: There are products that add body, such as texturizers or volumizers. There are also products for shine, straightening, and manageability. But the basics will always be gels, mousses and hairsprays. The difference between a gel and a mousse is that mousses are lighter and gels are thicker. Mousses dry faster than gels. Mousses and gels are available in different strengths, such as lightweight, medium weight and heavy, which are used for different hairstyles and textures of hair. The key is to know the effect you want to achieve for your hairstyle. Mousse is usually a lighter product even though it comes in lighter holds and super-hold, too. Be careful of using any super-hold product on a hairstyle. Hair will get crisper and dry faster, too. If you’ve never used any styling product on your hair, start with a mousse or a light gel. Sometimes mousses can dry out your hair with prolonged use, so try switching back and forth with a light gel.

Jill: I’m confused about knowing which products to use on wet hair and which to use after it’s dry.

Judy: There are also products you can use in between. Keep in mind that using products on very wet hair will dilute the product. I recommend that clients dry their hair a little bit with a hair dyer or by air-drying and then put the product in. It will give you more body and manageability and you won’t have to use as much. Actually, you should never have to use much of any product. Then there are products you can use in-between when your hair is almost dry, like a pomade, hair cream or a product for shine. These products will help if your hair has static or won’t lay down right. Run a light shine spray or hair cream through at this point with your hands. In fact, you should always apply products with your hands, because as soon as you apply them, they start to style your hair. Don’t depend only on your brush or blow dryer; your hands are the best first tools to use. Use your hands to work the product through to the ends. After the hair is dry, you can use hairsprays which come in light holds, heavy holds and sculpting sprays. Aerosol sprays tend to feel a bit lighter than pump sprays. Again, a little bit goes a long way with any product you use.

Jill: In general, what are the biggest mistakes people make with their hair?

Judy: The first thing that comes to mind is that we overwork our hair. We blow-dry it to death. Another mistake is being afraid of conditioners. Some people think their hair is too oily or too soft, but I recommend them. Sun damage is another problem.

Jill: People tend not to think about the sun damaging their hair. We’re careful nowadays with our skin, but not so with our hair.

Judy: Some products now have SPF factors in them, like hairsprays and gels. The sun and wind can do more damage than we think.

Jill: Are there any last words of wisdom you’d like to share about hair?

Judy: Good hairstyles are not so much about flattering your facial features. Of course, you want to flatter the best parts of your face and complement your personality, but hairstyles have more to do with hair texture and how your hair grows and that you accept it rather than fight it. Don’t try for straight hair if your hair is naturally curly. Also, be conscious of updating your look and make minor changes periodically. This doesn’t mean you have to change the length or style drastically. You can update it through hair accessories, styling tools, different products or color tones. Customize your style, realize your styling skills and talents and visualize your beauty from inside out and head to toe!

Judy Lucas, AICI, CIP, is the owner of Personal Images Unlimited, supporting clients in unlimited image opportunities through every growth or change in their lives. Personal Images Unlimited offers individual/group consultations for hairstyle services and also presents seminars/lectures related to image. She can be reached at JLDynamic@aol.com.